Why the Fifty20 Team Has a Soft Spot for the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph (Yes, We’re Admitting It)

Okay, confession time: as a watch‑obsessed gang, we at Fifty20 have held many beauties in our hands, tracked many movements, debated many bezel finishes. But the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph still gives us that little thrill. It’s not perfect. It’s not the be-all, end-all. But it is interesting. And in watchland, “interesting” is half the battle.

In this post, we want to do two things:

1. Tell you all the real facts (because integrity, people) about this watch: its lineage, its innards, its quirks.

2. Explain why we love it—through the lens of Fifty20: the meta commentary, the jokes, the opinions.

So buckle up. Let’s dive in.

 

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A Quick History: Where the Chronograph Meets the Dive DNA

To understand why the Black Bay Chronograph feels like a bit of a mash‑up (in a good way), you need the backdrop.

• Tudor’s chronograph story begins in 1970 with the Oysterdate – their first chronograph.

• Meanwhile, Tudor’s diving watch lineage (think Submariner roots and “Snowflake” hands) had been making waves since the '50s.

• The Black Bay family exploded in popularity after the 2010s, mostly through its dive watches. The Chronograph variant came in 2017.

• The 2021 refresh refined the case dimensions, dial options, and bracelet fit — giving it stronger everyday wearability.

In other words: the Black Bay Chronograph doesn’t feel forced. It is a hybrid — part dive DNA, part motorsport stopwatch — and that tension is exactly what gives it character.

 

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What Makes It Unique (And What’s Actually Solid)

Alright, specs first — because we promised facts. Then: the quirks and the charm.

Core Specs & Technical Highlights

Those are the headline numbers. But that’s only half the story. What makes the Black Bay Chronograph interesting (and lovable) are the little design decisions, compromises, and contradictions.

What Sets It Apart (And What Makes Us Grin or Groan)

• Hybrid identity
  It doesn’t feel exactly like a diver, and it doesn’t feel exactly like a racing chrono. That ambiguity is a strength. You can wear it under a shirt cuff or to a motorsport event and it doesn’t feel out of place.

• Snowflake hands on a chronograph
  Using a design cue from Tudor’s dive watches (the angular “Snowflake” hour hand) in a chronograph is a bold move. Some purists might balk. We think it proves Tudor isn’t slavish to category.

• Collaborative movement roots
  The MT5813 is built in collaboration with Breitling (based on the B01). But Tudor modifies it with their own finishing, a silicon hairspring, and COSC certification. It’s not off-the-shelf — it’s carefully tuned.

• Thickness & ergonomics
  One common critique: it’s not slim. The watch is relatively tall because of the movement and chrono stack. That can make it feel chunky on slimmer wrists. The 2021 update shaved some height and improved case geometry, but it’s still a bit of a unit.

• Bracelet nostalgia & craftsmanship
  The steel bracelet features faux rivets, evoking Tudor’s 1950s/60s era. Some love the detail; some don’t. But it's undeniably true to the retro-inspired DNA. The fabric strap, meanwhile, is woven on century-old looms and feels like it belongs in a Bond movie.

• Polished contradictions
  The bezel, case finishing, dial curvature, and sapphire dome all play off each other in a sort of controlled chaos. It’s not sterile or clinical — you’ll catch glints, reflections, and a sense of depth that keeps the watch from feeling flat.

• Versatility by default
  Because of its hybrid cues, strap swaps can totally transform it. Want dressy? Go leather. Want sporty? Fabric or bracelet. The personality shift is instant.

 

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Why We Love It (Yes, with Full Bias)

You might wonder: why write an entire meta piece on this watch? Here’s where Fifty20 gets self-referential (because of course we do).

1. It’s unapologetically hybrid
   We like things that resist classification. The Black Bay Chronograph isn’t purely dive or purely chrono; it straddles roads, sea, and boardroom. It fits our ethos: don’t be boxed in.

2. It invites debate
   We’ll argue over thickness, over whether the Snowflake hands belong, over whether it’s the best “bang for the buck” chronograph. That kind of spirited discourse is what keeps a watch alive in our mind.

3. It’s punchy, not flashy
   It doesn’t try to outshine the big names (Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster). It keeps its identity, offers solid specs, and rewards appreciation more than ostentation.

4. It rewards the obsessed
   The more you look, the more you find: finishing edges, dial curvature, contrast, strap textures. It’s not a one-glance watch; it’s one you live with.

5. It’s a storyteller
   Wearing it feels like wearing a narrative: a brand with dive roots, a branch into chronographs, collaborations with other marques, design decisions full of tension. It’s not just a timekeeper — it’s a statement.

 

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Potential Drawbacks (Because We’re Not Cultish)

We’d be disingenuous if we didn’t admit the things that give us pause (or spark debate):

• The thickness can overhang on smaller wrists.

• It’s not perfect for hardcore divers (because of the chronograph complexity), but Tudor doesn’t pretend it is.

• Some watch snobs might dismiss it for being derivative (Snowflake hands, hybrid cues).

• Because it’s a hybrid, purists of either dive-only or chronograph-only might prefer a more focused tool watch.

But these “flaws” are also part of the charm. It’s a watch with edges — not a bland slab.